Difficulties in Training Teachers

After a morning of working flat out to prepare the materials, I arrived at Hibret school for training. Waiting in the office, I was eventually joined by a man who walked in saying ‘you don’t remember me do you?’ thought this was a strange greeting but said politely ‘I remember the face but not the name – I’m very sorry’ He gave his name but I didn’t write it down so I won’t remember it again.

He reminded me that we had met at a meeting organised by LinkEthiopia. I remembered the occasion. Matt had wanted to look at what training support we could give the teachers and had invited this teacher along. Steve had also been there as he was going to prepare a report on it.

It was an evening meeting and though it wasn’t very late, I gave Meleshew enough money for a taxi home. She didn’t use it as she managed to get a line taxi – she didn’t return the money either. Having observed this, the teacher then asked Steve for some money. Steve refused and was by all accounts upset by the exchange. This obviously affected the teacher because he wanted to know from me why. I asked him why he needed the money since the line taxis were running and he lived in Gondar. I also explained that I had given the money on a personal level not because it was expected. He wanted to know why Steve had got so upset and hadn’t just explained this to him. I said he probably had but that he needs to recognise that ‘ferenjis’ are being asked for money from complete strangers many times a day and that for Steve, it would have been upsetting to find that he was being expected to give money again just because I had been observed giving money to my colleague.

By now, 10 minutes of my training time had been used.

I was eventually taken to a small office together with about ten teachers and my previous interrogator.

Knowing that the teachers would not appreciate my over-running (they were only there because they had been told to come) so I explained that we would not be carrying out the activities as I would wish but that I would give them a sample and the rest was written out on the lesson plan.

I proceeded – and was pleased to note that they were suitably impressed/entertained. They enjoyed the activities that we did together and seemed genuinely interested in trying out the group activities maybe with a tutorial group. After an hour, I invited them to reflect on the session with each other and check if they had any questions.

My friendly teacher then launched into a series of negative questions and statements. What exactly was the active learning content, how were they supposed to do it in a class of 70 and why didn’t I come along and try.

I calmly explained that I was sorry he hadn’t picked up on the main active learning input and briefly shared this again with the teachers – all of whom had understood. I also explained that teaching a class of 70 Ethiopian children that I didn’t know and who were unfamiliar with ferenjis in that role, would be more disruptive than useful but that I would be happy to plan and prepare to team teach with any teacher that would like me to come in – adding of course that I would expect an hour’s planning time and time afterwards to evaluate.

One of the teachers said that she had really enjoyed the session and would like me to come back – there were general nods of agreement and I felt a bit better.

I write this out quite fully because sadly, it is not unusual. There is a real need to train teachers in Ethiopia but motivation is very low. On the whole, the teachers I meet are not ambitious and even if they were, there chances of going up the career ladder are more closely associated with their or their husband’s party membership, not their level of competence or enthusiasm. Most schools operate a shift system – this means the teachers work a 4 hour morning or a 4 hour afternoon. They are expected to put in an additional 40 minutes planning and preparation time each day. Additional training can be expected by the Head and so my input is not always welcomed.

I try to organise training in the schools I can reach in blocks of 4 x 1 hours – but even this doesn’t work. They are not expected to make resources and their assessment procedures are mainly related to recording end of month test results.

Back to Hibret

23 October 2008

Back to Hibret to join the facilitators’ meeting – all in Amharic but I had the English version of the manual and was able to follow the general issues under discussion. This was a well organised meeting and the participants had clearly prepared for it.

Kosoye

19 October 2008

Taking full advantage of Mike’s truck, we went off to Kosoye again and took Mekedes and Ynke with us. I made a great picnic which we ate further away from Kosoye and shared with a mercifully small group of rural people.

Gorogora

18 October 2008

To Gorogora with Mike, Mekdes, her sister and Mike’s colleague.

Met up with Tim and Kim who are developing a budget accommodation project on Lake Tana using local people.

They initially set up a foundation in Holland which is now handled by other people who raise money for the project. They have started with building traditional style shelters for tents and a restaurant building and hope to begin the next phase of chalet style accommodation next week.

Beautiful setting and a lot of work from two enormously committed people.


Paddling in Lake Tana

Visit to Hibret school

16 October 2008

Visit to Hibret school to met up with Ato Lalu and then on to the Woreda.

Lunch with Melash at the Blue Asa favourite fish restaurant and them home to wait for..
Mike arrived together in his truck – caked in dust and dirt. He made his way to the shower whilst Mekdes made coffee.

Ledetta school

9 October 2008

Another day when I was supposed to be visiting the two schools I hadn’t seen on Tuesday. Meleshew arrived and set about trying to find a vehicle to complete the school visit schedule. She eventually pronounced it impossible since there was no fuel and a queue a kilometre long at the filling station.

Resigned to the situation, I continued with updating the records when suddenly, Meleshew came rushing in ‘We’re going now, hurry, hurry’. The truck was loaded with blackboards awaiting delivery to the schools. We sailed past the non-existent fuel queue and when we arrived in Azezzo, the vehicle stopped to let M and I out.

After things were sorted, we had just an hour to visit the schools. Recognising that two would be impossible, I asserted that I wanted to go to Ledetta despite everyone knowing it would be easier to go to Teklahaymanot.

To humour me, it was decided to go to Ledetta. We drove off in the direction of the airport, eventually turning off into a field – it seemed to me quite randomly. After attempting to cross a large stream, the driver stopped. Geshaw and Meleshew and I embarked on the walking bit.

Chatting amiably we were initially unaware of the shouts coming from the driver and others trying to re-direct us. We crossed a corn field that brought us to an identifiable track at the end of which was a fairly fast flowing river. Shoes off, we precariously moved from boulder to boulder to stone, to knee deep in the water…. And reached the other side. (good photo opportunity).


Where shall we cross?


Not sure this is the right spot

Sadly, our approach to the school did not bring the usual entourage of children to accompany us. No-one was there.


Lidetta School

A little girl informed us that she had been to school that morning though it is very hard to see what teaching could have gone on, no board, no furniture or sitting stones. At the guard house, we met two young women who showed us the boards for the school. We left two more. We will return!


Lidetta school

Ethiopian views on Ferenjis

Yesterday I invited Meleshew to lunch at my house. Today, I extended the invitation to Alaseb and Habisher who were delighted at the idea. Whilst I was preparing the meal, my three guests chatted in Amharic about the economy and whatever else they had to catch up on. (Mekdes informed me the next day that they were also commenting on my appearance and particularly the state of my feet which were much admired!).

I enjoyed listening to the chatter. Mekdes arrived back before I had completed the enterprise and after awhile reminded the ‘guests’ they were in a ‘ferenji’ house and should be speaking English! Go Mekdes ra ra ra!

Over coffee, the conversation focussed on the differences between Europe and Africa/Ethiopia with my guests divided on whether they would want to go to Europe or America if they had the opportunity. One wanted to go and register for the DV Programme – this amounts to some sort of lottery. America takes a quotient of applicants from Ethiopia each year selected randomly. If selected, you are also able to take your family with you. Meleshew said she had no interest in going since, having worked with ‘ferenjis’ for the past few years, it seems to her we have to work far too hard.

Visiting KiliRufael and Adinet schools

6 October 2008

Woke to a glorious day, clear blue sky, bright sunshine and an optimistic enthusiasm for work. Put the kettle and the boiler on, said goodbye to the night guard, Tilahun, and listened to the early morning bird songs. No church sounds this morning so the glorious Faure choral album that serves as my anti-dote to the megaphoned chants of the priest, stays off.

A few mobility and tummy exercises whilst I wait for the kettle to boil, then a few moments of peace on the veranda with my early morning tea and marmite toast.

Switched the computer on to see if there was an internet connection and left it to get into gear whilst I had a warm shower. The joy of the shower. For most of the time I’ve been here, I’ve had to boil a pan but, after many attempts by the technician, I can now say that the shower works and I love it.

Mekdes arrives at 8:30 and after passing on the day’s needs, I set off for work at 8:30.

Meleshew calls me on route to say that she cannot get a line taxi and could I arrange everything at the office and then pick her up on the way.

At the campus, no Ato Mulat (the transport manager), no Ato Mulugeta (the workshop supervisor), no vehicle, no driver. My European self still finds it difficult to understand that ‘promises’ are good will gestures and don’t actually mean anything.

Ato Menagwa, the General Services Manager said I could change my programme. Remaining very calm, I said that I had been waiting for a month to complete this programme, that the vehicle had been booked on 3 occasions and had not been available and that I was expected by 4 schools to visit today. This latter bit totally untrue – I have learned not to promise visits to schools because it is not in my power to deliver! Ato Menagwa said he would see what he could do. I decided to remain highly visible and sit on the steps of the main administration block rather than being ‘out of sight, out of mind’ in my office.

Meleshew arrived, a vehicle was found but no driver. A driver did eventually turn up and we set off at 10:45 but with the driver insisting we had to be back for 12.

We decided to go for two schools: KiliRufael and Adinet. Both were possible within the time limitations because the vehicle could drive all the way. The first school, I had visited briefly before in March/April when the LinkEthiopia people came. The second was a bit further out.

The female Director spoke to me in Amharic the whole time and addressed all her comments to me. This was interesting because she made no attempt at English, I had to focus very hard on what words I could make out. I was surprised that I understood (I think) as much as I would have done if she had tried to speak in English. Certainly, every time I checked with Meleshew, I seemed to be getting the gist of it which was that she now had 4 classrooms out of action because one building had a severe crack in it and the builder who had come to check said it was dangerous and mustn’t be used.

On my return, Meleshew asked where I wanted to go, was I going home for lunch? I said yes and did she want to come although there would be no lunch I would cook her pasta. She was very enthusiastic about that idea and went off to buy bread, tomatoes and some cokes.

But I’d stupidly picked up the wrong keys in the morning so, we couldn’t get into the house. I decided to ‘invite’ M for lunch at the Leyermeyer where we had a good but expensive spaghetti Bolognese.

Coffee at the house and a very enjoyable session chatting about local commodity prices with Mekdes and Meleshew.

Training at the Tara Centre

3 October 2008

My first attempt at delivering an English lesson to Ethiopian children watched by the teachers and staff of the Tara Centre. It went well until I asked Meleshew for some translation – this took an inordinate amount of time and I finally suspected that Meleshew was enjoying herself and had in fact taken over the lesson. The teaching staff took this as their opportunity to come back in and within a very short period my demonstration lesson had deteriorated into a team teaching session involving about six adults.

Meskal lunch and Monty Python

2 October 2008

Arrived early anticipating a day of school visits.

The visits had been organised by Mulugeta on a day when he noticed my existence having called in at the office to talk the absent Meleshew.

The inevitable break down began with Mulugeta coming in to tell me that I was late, the transport was ready and why wasn’t I? I immediately closed down the computer and began to gather my things. Mulugeta in the meantime disappears.

Sometime later he returns to explain that of course we can’t go today because of the ‘Meskal’ lunch.

Beginning to feel like I’m in a Monty Python sketch, I asked why he had said that everything was ready. Meleshew arrived and they both went off. They came back with glum faces talking to each other. Did I really need to go today?

Today is the college day for the Meskal lunch organised by the campus cleaners. A sheep had been slaughtered and was in the process of being cooked and the driver didn’t want to miss the event. Could we do a visit in one hour. I pointed out that they were the local people who needed to advise me on the viability of being able to make a visit in one hour. They both looked doubtful. Could I change my programme? I tried not to look frustrated and agreed that perhaps it would be better to change my programme.

Later, the cleaners came into the office and marched me down to the canteen to join in Meskal lunch. This event organised last year with pledges of money.


Lunch Guests

Apart from eating and drinking ouzo (I declined, it being the middle of the day and having bad memories of ouzo!), the main focus seemed to be how much people were pledging for the event next year. As each new pledge came in there was much chanting and clapping until, buoyed along by the event, I pledged Birr 200 to great applause!

Sports Day at Aba Entonyos Elementary School.

October 2008


Starting out

A great day for the children, teachers, parents and local dignitaries.
Aba Entonyos is located on the edge of Gondar and caters for some of the most needy street children – often orphans. Through a previous VSO and LinkEthiopia, they are linked to a school in the UK that has helped with fundraising for additional classrooms and other materials.


Egg and spoon race

Recently, a wealthy benefactor heard about the school and community and, deciding he wanted to do something in support, provided the resources for a school sports day followed by a feast for all the people involved including the children.


Girls' sprint


The excitement and pleasure in the children’s faces made this a day to remember for everyone. As well as the traditional sprint races, the children took part in egg and spoon, sack and wheelbarrow races. A giant relay finished off each section and of course the traditional teachers’ race brought loud applause!


Celebrities

There is much hope that the event will be repeated annually although perhaps the feasting will have to be scaled down. On this occasion, staff and volunteers spent the night before preparing an Ox to feed all the guests.


Sack race

Meskal

Meskal today celebrates the event of the Empress Helena’s finding of the cross in the 4th Century AD. People stack poles topped with Meskal daisies (see pic from outside my house) to form a pyramid around a cross. This is then burnt in a giant bonfire whilst the people dance around it three times.

We were told it started at 9am. Not wishing to miss anything, I met up with a Peace Corp friend and the new VSO volunteer (Ynke) at 8:30am. Took one or two pics from the roof of the Quora hotel where we had coffee. There didn’t seem to be the 100s of people that we had been warned to expect.


Jogging men
Our arrival at Piazza was fairly quiet so we got a good position and waited for the priests chant to stop and the ‘programme’ to begin. Over the next couple of hours, church groups from the outer areas gradually converged on the square in front of Fasilades Castle. A couple of hours later, the sun, crush and chants became too much and we decamped to a Hotel for lunch. Returning later, we fully expected to see the flames on the cross but it wasn’t to be. By this time, the square was packed, the chants still going and were now accompanied by a backdrop of young men excitedly jogging around in large chanting groups not much caring about who was in their way. We decided to go. So never got to see the flames.



Back to the neighbours house for the feast of Alichow (sheep stew – my favourite). Then home for a bit of peace and quiet punctuated by regular visitors of young men in what appeared to be dance groups. One carried a drum and the rest kind of sang and danced until money was handed over at which point they moved on.

At the end of the afternoon, I walked Ynke back to the line taxi passing groups of people celebrating over ‘tella’. A carefee kind of day that marks the end of the New Year Celebrations. Beleta tells me that’s it now until Christmas.

My House

I’m posting some pictures of my home since several people commented that they had no idea what it might be like (well one person did anyway!).


27 September 2008

Bed


Comfy Area


Living room and kitchen


View from my house

Managing the paperwork

27 September 2008

A week has gone already! Work is not that exciting at the moment – I’m collecting statistics for funding organisations which entails organising a system for data collection. I’m also carrying out anonymous interviews with teachers on behalf of the Ministry to find out what teachers really think about the in-service training and Continuous Professional Development.

Generally, so far, not enough of the former and the latter is only done because it’s the only way they can get a pay rise.

Staff at the college have been given a sack of wheat by the government. Sourced in Europe – this is an attempt by the government to keep prices down so in a way it’s in lieu of a pay rise. I think there are far more needy people in Ethiopia that the college lecturers who don’t greatly appreciate it any way. They want teff not wheat!

Plumbing problems...

20 September 2008

Woke up to a flooded bathroom. The result of repairs undertaken to restore my hot water shower. The plumber/technician supervisor arrived and then the plumber. It was decided one of the shower taps would have to be replaced. To achieve this, the water had to be turned off but no-one knew where to find the stop-cock. Undeterred, the plumber began wrenching a pipe from the side of the building and disengaging a connection and my newly dry garden received a surprise watering. He then set about trying to stem the flow by ramming in an old rag together with a screwdriver and covered the whole thing with a plastic bag. He then departed for the market to purchase the replacement parts.

All I wanted was a nice peaceful Saturday with my books/writing and, apart from Mekdes, no people. Perhaps I’m harbouring a reclusive personality, though I think not!

Shortly after the plumber’s departure, the pressure of water from the pipe ejected the temporary stop and hey presto, I had a new shower, of the outdoor and cold variety.

A night on the town.

19 September 2008

The hottest day since I’ve been back.

Friday night is 'ferenji' night at the Golden Gate in Gonder. Organised by Karlijn, Miriam had convinced me that we should continue the habit. I left around 6.40 which should have got me there by 7 or just after. But strangely, a minibus came almost immediately, drove up with few stops and I found myself there with 10 minutes to spare. At the best of times, I’m not keen on being in a bar alone, but in the middle of Gonder which becomes most definitely ‘seedy’ in the evenings? I sent urgent text messages to Miriam and Mulugeta with the usual ‘network busy’ signal. However, Mulugeta did get his message and put his skates on to be there as quickly as possible.

The Golden Gate is a pleasant enough bar and eaterie for young people but a bit ‘loud’ for my liking. I prefer to be able to converse over a meal. But a pleasant enough evening all around was about to come to an abrupt end with the appearance of the bill. Now the dilemma, if I go now then there will be no Tilahun to meet me at the roadside and I’ll have to walk down the dark lane alone. So, I convinced my dining partners that it was essential to have another beer.

Leaving the bar at 8.50, I noticed there was a mini bus still running. I climbed in, very happy that I was about to save myself 24 birr. When I first got on, there were about 6 passengers plus the driver and fare collector. The buses are designed to take 11 passengers. We waited, more people got on, we waited and still the bus was taking on more passengers. Eventually the last mini bus out of Gonder left with in excess of 20 people aboard. Three in seats for two and then some on laps – fortunately not mine!

Exciting evening

17 September 2008

Bad start to the evening.  Miriam said she would come at 7 - 7:30.  I told her how to get here but quite forgot that it was not going to be possible for her to work it out in the dark.   She tried to call and I assumed she must be on her way so went out in the dark to meet her.  Stood under a street light waiting for all the line taxis and trying to call her but there was 'no network'.  Beleta sitting in his shop wanted to come and stand with me.   Eventually, two youths came by and tried to snatch my phone.  All hell broke loose, two youths went running off down the road followed by half the neighbourhood and me shouting at everybody that I still had my phone and they hadn't got anything.  The main excitement in Gonder tonight. 

After much too ing and fro ing, Miriam finally turned up.

Felafels were ok - Miriam said they were good, I wasn't so sure.  But the real disaster was trying to make bananas and custard for desert. Yuk!

The milk for the yogurt comes straight from the cow.  Now I don't know what to do.  This is the best yogurt I've had.  Tomorrow morning it will be sitting there beckoning to me to eat with the lovely museli from Bumble Bee and in the other ear will be Monty saying to be careful.............

I have eaten two batches of it and have to say I not only feel fine but think it is positively good for me.
 
On the other hand, I am being bitten to death.  I can't bear it.  Nothing I do seems to get rid of them.  Mekdes is keeping the house meticulously clean and spraying regularly but still I'm being bitten.

No workers

15 September 2008

Tried to get back into work mode. Prepared early but didn’t get away because the boiler technician turned up. Had to call Mekdes and show my disapproval at her late arrival. Left finally at 9 leaving the workers in the house – came home at lunch time to find I now have running hot water! So no more boiling up pans – gosh what will I do with my life?

Still no-one at work. I met up with the CCU Co-ordinator over lunch. He promised to call in but didn’t. Tried to talk to Mulugeta. Didn’t want to go charging in so spent greeting time and when I finally got round to seeing him about work, he’d gone.
Came home at lunchtime with a bag of fresh broad beans, a gift from Alaseb.