National Holiday to celebrate the overthrow of the Dergue Regime

Wednesday 28th May

Today I did more training – English workshop for 2nd cycle teachers. Tomorrow I fly to Addis and will then take a two week break to have a look at the tourist trail with Monty.

National Holiday to celebrate the overthrow of the Dergue Regime. A generally very noisy affair that I didn’t participate in but heard as the procession went past the house. Mekdes came and I said she didn’t need to work but could stay and do language or go home and enjoy the holiday. She chose to stay.

Not everybody thinks there is much to celebrate but like anywhere else, people often like an opportunity for a party and this was the day set aside for it.

Life at the moment is getting more difficult for people. Prices are soaring – particularly for teff and kerosene. The electricity cuts appear to be increasing. I had no power at all yesterday which means it should have stayed on today but it went off for about 3 hours in the afternoon. Candle prices have doubled since I arrived!

Had a long session teaching Mekdes how to type a letter on the computer. First thing was convincing her that it wouldn’t bite and that she really wasn’t likely to cause any major problems. She wants to do an IT course next year and is trying to improve her English and learn about computers in preparation. It’s hard teaching someone how to use a computer, but when that person doesn’t have much English, it is painfully slow. Mekdes kept wanting to take breaks to make the bed, do the washing up and endless other tasks with which she fills her days. But I was a hard task master and made her complete the project on the computer. She wanted me to do it for her. I wanted to do it for her! But in the end, she achieved the objective (oh bloody hell – what’s the matter with me?).

In the afternoon Metush rang to invite himself round to visit this evening. I thought I might take him out to dinner but decided that cooking at home would be a better bet for my health.

Left the house at 5ish to visit my neighbours, only to be greeted by hordes of children. One of which decided it would be a good idea to look through my bag and when I made it clear that wasn’t an option decided to throw stones at me instead. The other children laughed including a young adult female. I returned to my house. When Metush arrived we went and found what was left of the group and he spoke to them. I hope that will sort it.

Big Training Day

27 May

Felt a little better this morning. Decided to try and keep food to the minimum and water to the maximum.

Arrived at work – nobody there, no transport, no materials etc. But 3 young female instructors all needing things for their training that I knew nothing about. This meant I had to get my materials prepared and then sort them out. I was not a happy bunny.

Finally got transport half and hour late and with no fuel. I had to fork out for fuel and the driver per diem of 40 Birr or we wouldn’t be able to go. The driver then said there was something wrong with one of the tyres. He said this to warn me he would not be able to go fast to make up time! Oh my God! Despite this, he did drive fast and I hung on.

We arrived at the school 40 minutes late – not too bad by Ethiopian standards. There was general confusion about who was supposed to be doing what so all my plans went out of the window and I had 100 assorted 1st and 2nd cycle teachers plus directors and supervisors and… somebody from the Woreda to observe my training. Try as I might, I couldn’t find out basic details like how long was the session supposed to last so I just got stuck in and hoped for the best.

The first session went well and I was eventually told we would break at 6 o’clock (12pm euro time). I tried to draw it to a close at 5:30 but Meleshew wanted to know what I was going to do next. I considered a song and dance routine but suggested it was time for a break since we had now been working for 2 hours. We stopped. It wasn’t a break in the conventional sense where you might move to another room or outside or even get offered a drink and a roll. Nothing.

Half an hour later, the teachers came back in and Meleshew took over with her Model Classroom training which she crammed in to ¾ of an hour. One of the instructors rang her phone in the middle of it to find out when we were going for lunch. The three of them had talked the driver into taking them to the market.

Lunch came and the key supervisor and school director took Meleshew and I for lunch. We were served a local dish of injeera and meat. I pleaded an upset stomach and just nibbled.

Back for the afternoon. The teachers were supposed to divide into groups for the subject based sessions. We were offering Maths, Science, Music and Lesson Planning (lead by me of course). Nobody moved. The supervisor stood up and talked to the teachers and some altercation was taking place. I asked Meleshew what was happening – nobody wanted the subject sessions they all wanted to stay for the lesson planning.

Ok, so I was flattered they had enjoyed the first session and wanted to stay for the afternoon but I was beginning to lose my voice and knew that with so many teachers it would have to be more of a lecture than a training session. Eventually, about half the teachers left. I ran a workshop on lesson planning, setting objectives, thinking about the needs of the less able… completely off the top of my head. I made the supervisors work together – they explained they couldn’t do lesson planning since they no longer taught so I ran a session on the side on how to do supportive lesson observations!

At one stage, trying to explain to the teachers the difference between an aim and an objective, I asked Meleshew if she could translate. She promptly answered “No” because she hadn’t understood! I had to reword and gesticulate the whole thing. On the way home, she confessed that she had been dropping off to sleep because she had to eat a larger lunch than normal because I wasn’t eating! Oh boy, do I need a holiday!

Dropped my things at the office and caught a line taxi to meet up with two visitors from Addis who had just got back from the Siemiens. They were in the square where the next day’s festival was beginning with music and dancing. Suddenly realised that, despite increasing my water intake, I had not been to the loo all day. I took my leave and returned home to put my feet up. Bliss!

In Addis with the VSO

Sunday 18th May

The house being very quiet, I set off for the market to see what I could find. Shola market is great. A small market but with a full range of all that is on offer in Addis, not a big tourist venue. I was greeted in a friendly way but not hassled at all. Just like a regular visit to the market.

At lunchtime, Allan and I went to Arat Kilo (a square 4 kms from the centre) where we met up with Gordon and Dave for lunch. Gordon took us to see his office (photo below) utility design from another era.


Corridors of Power

Then a lovely lunch – margherita – yes Arden, if you’re reading this, that’s what I ordered and ate and it was the best margherita in the whole world!

From there, we left for the University to take part in the HIV/aids awareness day being organised by a group of NGOs including some from VSO. The highlight, for me, a small choir made up of street children that were being cared for by a Volunteer Youth Project. All of these children are orphans, many of them due to HIV/aids. Some of them had been diagnosed positive. I took a video of them and hope that I can attach it to this blog.


Aids Awareness day

The next few days were interesting but I don’t think they’ll add anything to my blog. 2 days of cluster conference, catching up with VSO colleagues, cooking dinner, eating pizza and falafel, buying cucumber in the market. Gave up my free day to type up the cluster workshop information. HIV/aids workshop interesting in terms of net working but mind numbingly boring in terms of presentation. Shopping day Friday and... Best of all... Booked my ticket home for the summer – July 1st

Off to Addis

Saturday 17th May

Woke up early and had loads of time to prepare for my flight. Rang Meleshew and got her to check out the transport to the airport. Mekdes made me coffee and fussed around me whilst I tried to pack. Remembered to give her the parcel ticket to collect – addressed to Mekdes!

Transport arrived, stopped at the college to pick up Ato Mengitsu who wasn’t around. Pointed out that there was a deadline here! The driver ran and dragged Ato M back. Picked up Meleshew. Wanted to go home immediately and change. Meleshew had obviously made great use of her impromptu day off – well coiffured hair, manicure, make up, neat black suit with white shirt and struggling slightly with walking in 3 inch heels on a brand new pair of white strappy sandals.

She was excited. Insisted on buying coffee at the airport. I warned her it wouldn’t be cheap but she thought it might be about 4 birr – turned out to be 9.5 birr.

At Addis, we were met by a small look-alike that turned out to be Meleshew’s daughter and her cousin.

We shunned the taxis and walked out of the airport to the nearest taxi rank where I was put on a taxi for Haya Hulet which cost less than 1 birr. Topped up my mobile and met Allan at the Pride Bar.

"My patience has run out"

Friday 16th

This has been a tough day. I am most definitely in need of a bit of rest and recuperation and a break from some of my colleagues.

I wrote up the day in the work diary so need to transfer it over. But, it ended at the point that I and 6 college tutors left for Keye Ameba finally to deliver training to 2nd cycle teachers – I have to say, if I was those teachers, I’d be so pissed off.
Predictably, Hiwot and Astede turned up at the right time. The van was later. Fitsum was there, then disappeared. Tibetu turned up. He said he couldn’t come but did anyway. I’m sure the science session would have been just as good or better without him.

No sign of Alemayhu so I rang him and 7:40. Eventually left college at 7:55 – This really isn’t bad by Ethiopian standards but my patience has run out.

We had to do quite a detour to pick up Melku – we arrived at the school at 8:20.
As soon as we got into the rooms, it rained. Now normally this shouldn’t be a problem but it was a deluge – and the roofs are made of tin! So nobody could hear anything or see very much since the tin windows had to be shut and the rain had made it dark anyway.

I then spent the best part of the next two hours observing Melku giving my training – it was excrutiating.

Not really his fault because it’s extremely difficult to deliver someone else’s training – at the very least you need to make adjustments to make it your own. He hadn’t. Now I have to write up observation notes which will build on the positive. I’m far too tired to do it tonight. I won’t have time in the morning. Then I’m in Addis for several days of conference, meeting friends and shopping. And, I haven’t packed.

On the way home, I stopped at Piazza to go and meet Alaseb. Again, I didn’t want to do this but in the event I was fed a lovely meal for which I have not thanked her and this saved me having to do anything at home. Just as well really since the electricity keeps going off.

"The training session went surprisingly well"

10th May

Up early again, zipped around to get everything ready. Arrived at college at 2am (8am) noticing the vehicle on the way in seemed to be having a full scale clean and check over – and that the driver was in the middle of it. He didn’t notice me. Went to the office to collect my bits and pieces and carried them up to the van. One box, two roles of posters and a sash board. There were loads of students about – no-one offered to help. When I don’t want help, I get offered it all the time!

Fanta (driver), realised he would have to stop what he was doing. And after a wait of 10 minutes we left finally at 2.20. Rang Meleshew, no answer. Tried again. Rang her home number. The maid answered to say Meleshew wasn’t there. Rang the mobile again. Her husband answered and said she had gone to Gonder and would be back shortly and that we should wait at the taxi stand. We waited for awhile. Fanta then decided he would drive to Meleshew’s house. I tried to stop him. Rang the mobile again and the husband answered. I asked him to speak to Fanta and explain that Meleshew was not at the house – whether he did or not, I don’t know but we carried on to the house and out came Meleshew! Still getting dressed. She said her husband was sick. I said perhaps she should stay home. She did.

The training session went surprisingly well. The trouble is, I have no way of assessing how effective it is. Firstly, I have no idea at what level they are understanding what I’m saying, and secondly, I don’t have anything to compare it to. One teacher came up to tell me I was a very good teacher and several others thanked me with similar comments. Fanta said it was very good and everyone had enjoyed it. Well, we shall see.

Home finally to put my feet up and have a very lazy afternoon and evening. Made myself a salad with olives for lunch. Reading my papers and watching a romantic comedy dvd in the evening. Made myself some popcorn and ate the rest of my bread for dinner because I couldn’t be bothered to cook and hadn’t got anything in and didn’t want to go out.

Not so good...

Friday 9th May

Got to work early in order to finish the preparations for my visit to Kebele school before the CTE meeting at 4 o’clock. Various visitors including Alaseb, and one of the supervisors. Eventually, realising I was running out of time, I asked Mulugeta to do some pictures for me.

At 4 o’clock one of the instructors arrived. By 4:10 most of them appeared including Alemayhu. An argument in Amharic then ensued. Evenutally decided to be rude and interrupt them. I explained why I was there and re-iterated that I was not ‘in charge’ or responsible in any way for their workload. That if they were unable to undertake training because of other commitments they should say so to whoever was their line manager – one of them, Tibetu then started up with a run down of his programme of work. I interrupted him and repeated that it was of no interest to me –my job was organising training. They finally agreed to do the training at Keye Ameba next Friday – I was not pleased as this is the last day I have available to pack for Addis but, whatever. I made them promise that they would do as they agreed. I have booked the transport with Mulat who said I must give him one week’s notice of bookings! He then said I needed to remind him on Thursday! I said could I make that Wednesday since I was busy on Thursday! I reminded him of the need for transport for Saturday morning. He pretended not to know. I reminded him that Fanta had booked it with him and he smiled.

So after all that, I rushed off to be on time for my training session at Kebele – remembering just as I got to the gate that I hadn’t collected the pictures or book from Mulugeta. I went back. It wasn’t done. No sign of Mulugeta!
Got to the school – it was very quiet. Apparently, all the Grade 1 -4 teachers were at the college with Eschete receiving continuous assessment training. The 2nd cycle teachers had not been reminded of the meeting so a totally wasted visit.

Back to college – I ate my packed lunch – injeera with the shiro and vegetable wot Mekdes has made for me the night before.

Fortunately, the email was working.

Spent the rest of the afternoon sorting out the preparations for the training on Saturday. Went to remind Mulugeta that I needed a ‘traffic lights’ . He was busy doing something but nothing to do with the CCU.

Eventually, he came in with the picture I’d wanted for the morning. I went and retrieved some card to do the job myself. Mulugeta was busy making banners for the wedding of my line-manager’s daughter. He did eventually come and say he could help but it was all rather too late. I must admit, after the pleasure of the two days earlier in the week, I was now totally pissed off. Meleshew had been taken out to do something for the college so having agreed to train on Saturday and expecting to do it with her, I was left alone to do everything.

I had to work late. I came home at 6 and immediately received a phone call from my neighbour reminding me that I was going to a party round at their place and they were waiting for me! Today is Saint Mary’s Day – a family celebration time.

I quickly took a cold shower, changed, put on a smile and went round to my neighbours.

The party turned out to be the family, dressed in their celebration clothes and me. We sat in the garden because there was no electricity. We ate doro wot, drank beer and coffee and chatted until we couldn’t see each other any more. Adina and Kibebe then walked me home.

It was great to get home!

"Things are coming together really well"

8th May

Couldn’t start out with a visit to Gonder to pick up my packages. Thought I would get a line taxi but after waiting half and hour decided to walk. Collected two packages (books and films ordered from Amazon), caught the line taxi to college.

Arriving at the office, slightly surprised to be greeted by two of the instructors (lecturers) who said they had a meeting with me at 4:00 (10am). Pointed out that no-one had told me. Ato Alemayhu up to something again. Two more instructors came with the same story. One told me I needed to get this sorted out! Think there must be some management shenanigans afoot! Finally rang Alemayhu who came to the office and we had another of our non-conversations and agreed that we would meet on Friday at (9:00 (3pm). Aleseb came by and we went for coffee – whilst at the coffee lounge, Melksu (English instructor) came to inform me that he couldn’t meet at 9:00 so we would have to meet at 4:00. Walking back to the office, I greeted Alemayhu again – twice in one day and I don’t usually see him at all… he said we had to meet at 4:00. I protested that I was supposed to be at Kebele for training at 5:00 but Alemayhu thought we could do it in half and hour. Oh dear, this man really doesn’t want to be doing this.

Meleshew, Mulugeta and I then sat down to go through the CCU action plan. An achievement in itself but it went well and I arranged personal sessions with both of them for the afternoon.

Meleshew then shared her lunch with me.

Both afternoon sessions went very well. Both Mulugeta and Meleshew are very motivated at the moment – build while I can I guess.

Then Fanta came in from Teda school. He has arranged for more training on Saturday and wants me to deliver the English Language training. So it looks like my weekend will be filled already.

Feeling really good about the work at the moment. Things are coming together really well.

Letters, newspapers and parcels...

Wednesday 7th

Today started out uneventfully – the priest chants waking me at 5:00 am reminded me that I had to be up early this morning as I was going to be running a training workshop. The day was still dark, dull and cool but the area around the house is now taking on a green hue – not fully green but with definite signs that the rains have promoted growth. Certainly in the garden which is now very green around the edges though still not showing much for the planting that I carried out over the past few months.

No tummy problem and no apparent headache. A very promising start to the day. Arriving at college, I wasn’t overly surprised to note that I was alone and that neither of my counterparts were around. 40 minutes to go before we leave so not to worry!

Mulugeta had completed some of the pictures that I needed for today so I settled down to completing the rest.

Meleshew finally arrived and started organising transport and loading up materials and we set off.

A great training session. Delivered with far more confidence that previously and helped enormously by having Meleshew there who was able to translate when necessary. Everyone seemed to enjoy the session and I wound it up with the alphabet test. All the English teachers I meet say that children hate learning English, they can’t read it, find it very difficult and it is a major cause of children dropping out after Grade 4. I take them through the alphabet and they duly tell me the letters. They become very confused when I ask them to give me the sound of the letter!

On the way home, I got the driver to stop by the post office – a PO box full! A package of The Saturday Guardian from Charles – with all the sections - brilliant. Two postcards from Barbra one showing a London Bus to the amusement of my fellow passengers. And a note to say there was a parcel to collect. Unfortunately, the PO was closed so I had to leave that one behind. At least I can anticipate the pleasure.

Meleshew stopped by for lunch. I’ve invited her several times but she never comes. Today she came and I had nothing to offer. Managed to quickly make a pasta dish and then attempted to perform the coffee ceremony. Meleshew was impressed and seemed genuinely relaxed sitting on the veranda quietly munching popcorn.

Back at the office, we discussed progress and future plans – very productive.

Home to another power cut. Early evening reading giving way to the touch typing diary activity.

Coffee and things

Tuesday 6th May

Something happened to Meleshew and Mulugeta. They both turned up early for work today (that is within an hour of my arrival). Nobody disappeared when I suggested we go through the diary for the month. Both of them offered to do tasks to help with the training tomorrow! What is this about I wonder?

I was glad of a good start to the day as I was feeling pretty lousy – everywhere seems to ache, I feel a bit tired and listless. Have had a bad stomach again over the weekend. Will have to get this check out when I go to Addis if things don’t improve.

Worked through lunch and left early to sort things out at the bank and my airline ticket to Addis which now needs to be extended. Had been told the Dashen bank do VISA so I thought I would give it a try – it works. Not quite in the way you would normally expect. No ATM machine asking which language you’d like to use. Just a sign over a desk from where I was ushered into the main part of the bank, sat at a desk, offered coffee and waited patiently for the various forms to be filled out, ID to be shown and the disappearance of the clerk for about 10 minutes. But despite the tootling about, I did get my money.

Collected the volley ball and net for Anichow school (see " Visit to Anichow School" post) and was just making my way up to the airline office when I heard my name called from a café. Escheti from Kebele School came rushing out and invited me back in for coffee. He reminded me that he had invited me at Easter and I said I would come some other time. I don’t want more Doro Wot, but what can I do?


Coffee Ceremony - Part 1

Home to Mekdes who made me coffee and popcorn.


Coffee Ceremony - Part 2

Mekdes loves doing the coffee ceremony – she knows it’s time to chat.


Coffee Ceremony - Part 3

This time, to the background of the whining priest over the megaphone, we discussed whether Michael or I were more antagonistic towards the chanting priests! I am ashamed to say I am beginning to harbour quite unpleasant thoughts towards them. Especially when woken at 3am on a Saints day to be an unwilling participant in their devotions. I get up, close the window, put in the earplugs and try to go back to sleep but that drone gets through.


Coffee Ceremony - Part 4


Coffee Ceremony - Part 5

Weddings

3rd and 4th May

First event was the wedding of the Dean’s daughter. Glamorously dressed in white not unlike a European outfit, she wore and elaborate, glittery tiara. During the pre-wedding lunch, she was nowhere to be seen. The afternoon was interrupted by much clapping, tongue clicking and other assorted noises that heralded the arrival of the groom. He was escorted by his entourage to the bride’s house. Thirty minutes later, they emerged together and, accompanied by their attendants, paraded their way through the clapping crowd to a podium that had been erected for the occasion. They sat on throne like seats and watched as the attendants performed a traditional dance. The priest then performed the traditional ceremony, exchanging vows and rings.

The next day, I attended the wedding of another officer’s son. A lunch was held for his family and friends and at some point during the afternoon, the groom and his attendants and some of the guests went off to the house of the bride.


With Adina at Wedding

At both weddings, a meat wot and injeera was served constantly being replenished by men with never emptying bowls. Other men served ‘tella’ which is described as beer – but not like any beer I have ever tasted. It looks like muddy water and doesn’t taste much better. Very bitter. It is made at home and brewed for about a week. It is alcoholic but I have never been able to drink enough to test the veracity of this claim! At the Dean’s house, I was offered a soft drink instead for which I was extremely grateful.

At the groom’s house, there is also a lunch. The groom is then sent off with everyone clapping, dancing and making a lot of noise. Special guests of the groom follow in cars to the home of the bride where they join the bride’s guests for the ceremony and more celebrations.

Thursday May 1st – International Labour Day

May 2008-05-06

If the Ethiopians can celebrate ILD on May 1st despite the fact that it is not their May 1st, why can’t we?

Two invitations to weddings this weekend and not a thing to wear. Meleshew took me shopping to Arada Market to buy a traditional outfit. Managed to spend the whole of last month’s allowance cheque on my new outfit and paying the telephone bill!